Iceland by sea: Where volcanic wonders meet midnight sun

Standing at the rail of our floating hotel as we approach Iceland, I watch the landscape emerge from the mist like something from a dream. After years of leading land-based walking tours across Europe, I wasn't quite prepared for how magical a cruise and walk holiday would be. The group gathers beside me, cameras ready, but we all fall silent. Sometimes, arrival by sea offers something that flying never can. 

This adventure through Iceland promises something quite different from my usual tours. We're on a floating hotel, yes, but this isn't about lounging by the pool. Each day brings new volcanic landscapes to explore on foot, remote places we'd never reach under our own steam, and walks that will take us up close to some of nature's most astonishing geological wonders.

That first evening aboard sets the tone for everything that follows. Our group of fourteen claims two adjacent tables in the restaurant, and there's something wonderful about the way we naturally rotate seating. By the end of the week, we'll all know each other properly, but even now, there's a warmth building. 

The waiting staff never stop smiling. Their attentiveness to ensuring each guest has a great time is astonishing. Service with a smile, indeed. Our early dining sitting makes so much sense. We move from dinner to perhaps a deck walk, watching the coastline fade into the distance, then as the evening unfolds, there's the chance to experience lively entertainment or have a quiet drink in one of the lounge areas.

What surprises me most is how much we all love the sea days. I hadn't expected this. On land-based tours, there's always the pressure to keep moving, to see the next viewpoint, visit the next village. Here, the sea days offer something precious: the chance to choose your own combination of relaxing leisure and exciting activities. 

The group enjoys walking laps of the promenade deck, building up an appetite for some great meals. I don't think anyone is ever bored. There are so many opportunities to attend lectures or concerts, join in games, or simply relax quietly in beautiful surroundings. Each evening, your cabin crew delivers the 'Daily Times' for the next day, and the array of things to try is superb. 

Whether you choose to make time to sit and watch the sea go by, or pack in an array of classes or talks, it is up to you. You get to enjoy whatever you choose.

I hadn't appreciated before travelling that the lighter nights would bring such enjoyment of walking on deck in the late evening. Something you can do alone or with a small group of other guests. We often chat to the nature conservation team on board ship, trying to get a glimpse of a whale or puffin as the sun fades in the sky. The Land of the Midnight Sun is just beautiful from the sea. 

Deck 3, the promenade deck, is a perfect place to enjoy feeling very close to nature and to the magnificence of the sea. Walking on a ship is never boring. There's something meditative about the rhythm of your steps against the gentle roll of the ocean, the endless horizon stretching before you.

As I prepare for bed that first night, the Daily Times for tomorrow already delivered to my cabin, I can't help but feel excited. The group has no idea what awaits them. The overwhelming grandeur of Iceland's waterfalls. The privilege of standing between two tectonic plates. The turquoise depths of volcanic crater lakes. The geysers performing their ancient dance. 

And through it all, we'll be exploring on foot, getting off the beaten track to witness what life is like living on the edge of this North Atlantic region. So many contrasting ways to enjoy this remarkable place – from the landscape, from the bus, on foot, and from the sea. 

Iceland is calling. It's time to answer.