One of the most enduring charms of a Halkidiki walking holiday is the sense of stepping into a quieter, older Greece. The town of Arnaia, set in the heart of the Holomondas range near Thessaloniki, is a fine example: winding cobbled streets, traditional stone architecture, and the beautifully restored church of St Stefanos make it a compelling stop before heading out onto the trail.
Nikiti's old town has a different kind of appeal. Elaborate gardens spill over stone walls, pomegranate trees and aubergine plants frame doorways, and a central square of tavernas and cafés in nearby Agios Nikolaos provides a welcoming place to rest after the walk.
The deserted hilltop village of Parthenonas is perhaps the most atmospheric of all. Partially restored and perched high above the sea with views stretching across to the Kassandra peninsula, it's the kind of place that stops you in your tracks.