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Mallorca’s Ancient Mountain Paths

A guide's journal, part 1 of 3

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  • Majorca

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Ancient paths with countless stories

The ancient paths beneath our boots have known countless footsteps. We're walking from San Telmo on centuries-old restored cobbled paths which criss-cross between villages, used by generations to move produce, post and themselves across the mountains. Walking in the footsteps of the Moors, vine growers, charcoal makers, maybe even smugglers, we continue the tradition today with Ramble. 

Each morning begins with anticipation, gathering our strong-soled shoes or boots essential for these rough limestone tracks. The Serra de Tramuntana rises before us, promising that perfect combination of mountain and coastal walking that makes this tour so special. From the very first steps, we're aware we're part of something much larger than a simple walking holiday. These paths have stories to tell.

Dragonera Island sunsets

From our dining room at Hostal Dragonera, we watch the sun setting behind Dragonera Island each evening. The island sits there, a protected nature reserve now, rescued by local people from the clutches of a property developer who wanted to build apartments and helipads for exclusive guests. It's a reminder of how precious these wild places are, how easily they could have been lost. As we dine overlooking the sea, yachts, Pantaleu and Dragonera islands, the sky turns red and orange during sunset. Sometimes we leave the table to capture the moment on our phones, so spectacular it can be. 

The Mallorcan Alioli, fresh bread and olives with a glass of local wine provides a perfect opportunity to chat over the day's experiences with our new companions before dinner. These gatherings become a cherished ritual, where the day's discoveries are shared and tomorrow's adventures anticipated. The local wine loosens tongues and stories flow as freely as the wine itself.

Mountain meets sea perfection

I love how the scenery on these walks changes as we cover more ground during the day. We could be walking through a protected reserve with gnarled olive trees or holm oaks, then the path opens out to give magnificent coastal views. One moment we're in shadowed groves, the next we're standing on an outcrop with the Mediterranean stretching endlessly before us. This tour has the perfect combination of mountain and coastal walking as the Serra de Tramuntana sweeps down to the sea. I can't decide which I prefer but when you get both on one walk, I'm in walking heaven. 

The diversity of attractions here is amazing. We can have a beer at a local bar in a quiet village as well as a more sophisticated drink along the waterfront in Port d'Andratx. A quick walk round the touristy village of Valldemossa or a quick look at the quirky sculptures in Esporles adds variety to our walking days. Each stop offers its own flavour of Mallorcan life.

Miracle sand and perfect swims

Anyone who loves a swim after a day's hiking is lucky here. We can access the sea from just behind the hotel in less than a minute. A natural miracle happened over the winter: the normally rocky sea bed has been covered in deep sand brought in by the waves! Makes for a beautiful easy access into the sea for a refreshing dip. As we float in the clear water, watching the mountains we've just walked rising behind us, the day's efforts dissolve into the Mediterranean.

Book your own San Telmo tour

Ready to walk these ancient paths yourself? Experience the perfect combination of mountain and coastal walking on our Walking from San Telmo tour.

Classic Discover Adagio Self-guided

Follow Avril's Story

Read the second part of Avril's story. 

Part Two: Mallorca's Moorish Terraces and Wildlife

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