A journey through history, art and countryside in Umbria, a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Italy.
Call us on 01707 817260
Or, email us at customersupport@rambleworldwide.co.uk
Call us on 01707 817260
Or, email us at customersupport@rambleworldwide.co.uk
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On the short trip from the airport the headlights had picked out snatches of rocky landscape and skinny dogs on business in the dead of night. This morning the windows from the breakfast room look down on the urban cacophony in the street below, busy humanity urgently trading in strong sunlight and even stronger colours – a market scene to match the best. Across the road under the “waiting shop” sign women shriek and jostle to hold their place, waiting for the barred doors to admit the next squabbling group, competing for gaudy things to sell in the street. A slight frisson of culture shock or trepidation for the new arrival? This is Praia, full on – the capital of Cape Verde on the Island of Santiago.
The coffee and slices of papaya are the precursor to adventures on three very different islands; Santiago, Sao Vincente and Santo Antao. We will trek from dizzy heights in moonscape mountains, down to the lush Ribeira floors and the riot of beans, manioc, cassava, bananas and mango trees. We will be overtaken by burdened donkeys on rocky paths and greet locals in vibrant colours elegantly balancing loads on their heads.
The friendly people with their colourful dresses who manage to eke out a living from this arid volcanic land… we enjoyed a wonderful spontaneous hour spent with a family who grew fruit and vegetables on their 3-hectare small holding. Everywhere we were met with friendly smiles and “bom dia”.
At the “grogue” distilleries in the sugar cane plantations do we dare to experience the breathy gaspiness which evaporates on the tongue before the chance to swallow? The local fire water undoubtedly holds the description of strong and sharp.
The incredible cobbled roads and paths which climbed up near vertical mountainsides to 4000 feet above sea level…
The fabulous Coastal Path from Ponta do Sol….
But for me it has to be the Island of Santo Antao that captured my heart. From the moment we climbed aboard our minibus in Porto Novo to make the fabulous journey over the mountains to Ponta do Sol, I was in love with the Island.
We had a most friendly hotel in the small town with the lovely French speaking Betty as ‘mine hostess’. We ate out in noisy local restaurants on some evenings, sampling the local atmosphere. The walks came in many varieties, but my favourite was the cobbled coastal path which somehow clung to the cliff-side with the azure Atlantic on our right-hand side.
On other days we descended into the Cova volcanic crater before making our way steeply down into a lush green “Ribeira” or valley with bananas and mangos everywhere, and on another day followed these green valleys to their end. The volcanic mountains were always around us twisted into amazing shapes with seemingly vertical faces.
This is Africa without the flies, or perhaps this is a tropical Nepal. No, this is all on its own – this is Cape Verde. We are going to find refuge from the sun in “shanty” bars and walk on empty sands beside the Atlantic Ocean. Perhaps the water in the shower before dinner will not be warm, but we will probably feast again on swordfish, tuna or mackerel straight from the sea a few hours ago. Our knees may complain from the hiking exertions but in the bar, the shapely lady in the scary leggings will not accept “no” to a dance. The guitarists will finally perform sad despairing ballads from the times of slave trade and famine, said to have even wrung tears from the local oxen!
This is adventure! are you up for it?
If you’d like to join our next walking tour to Cape Verde or step into an adventure in Africa, click here. Ramble Worldwide also offer many other fantastic walking adventures.