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Into Andorra's Secret Valley Routes

A Guide's Journal: Part 2 of 3

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  • Mountains
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Jane's field notes from Andorra

Ramble Worldwide walk leader Jane continues her exploration of Andorra's hidden landscapes

There's a moment in every truly special tour when you realise you're not just walking through a landscape, you're being initiated into its secrets. For our Andorra group, that moment came when we entered the stunning Juclar Lakes area, following an old smuggler's route into France.

The smuggler's path

The history beneath our feet made every step more meaningful. This wasn't a modern hiking trail carved out for tourists, this was a route used by people who knew these mountains intimately, who needed to move unseen through terrain that would challenge even experienced walkers.

As we climbed higher, following the ancient path that smugglers once used under cover of darkness, I felt that familiar thrill that comes with accessing something truly special. The rocky slopes around us were carpeted with pink alpenrose, not the occasional splash of colour you might expect, but entire hillsides transformed into a pink paradise.

The immense beauty and solitude struck me with unexpected force. This was what I'd been searching for in all my years of guiding: a place where the modern world simply fell away.

A symphony of flowers

If someone had told me before this tour that I'd spend paragraphs describing flowers, I'd have laughed. But the meadows in Andorra in late June are nothing short of extraordinary.

Picture this: orchids standing proud among wild iris, alpine thrift creating purple carpets alongside golden arnica. Globe flowers catching the morning light while wild thyme released its fragrance with every step. The air itself seemed to shimmer with colour and scent.

It wasn't just the visual spectacle, though that was breath-taking enough. It was the way these flowers had claimed every available space, turning entire valleys into living tapestries. Swallowtail butterflies danced from bloom to bloom while eagles and griffon vultures soared overhead, completing a scene that felt almost too perfect to be real.

The lakes that demanded a swim

When we finally reached the Juclar Lakes, something wonderful happened. After hours of challenging terrain, these pristine mountain waters appeared like jewels set in the rocky landscape. The blue was so intense it almost hurt to look at directly.

Without any discussion, several of the group made a decision that spoke to the spirit of true adventure. They weren't going to just admire these lakes, they were going to experience them. The water was shockingly cold, but the exhilaration was worth every second of that mountain plunge.

Standing there, watching my group celebrate their courage with laughter that echoed off the surrounding peaks, I felt that deep satisfaction that comes from sharing something genuinely special with people who understand its value.

The sound of solitude

In the distance, marmots whistled their ancient warnings. It's a sound that connects you instantly to the wildness of these mountains, a reminder that we were visitors in terrain that belongs to creatures who've mastered this landscape over thousands of years.

That whistle became the soundtrack to our exploration. Each call reminded us that we were in a place where wildlife still reigned supreme, where the rhythms of nature hadn't been disrupted by human interference.

Why this matters

One of our group members captured the significance perfectly: "For a fortnight's holiday this was excellent value. All meals (including packed lunches) were included. The grade 8 walks were interesting and not too easy." That last comment is crucial.

Where everything is made easier, more convenient, more accessible, there's something profound about encountering genuine challenge. These weren't Instagram-friendly walks designed for casual tourists. These were serious mountain routes that demanded respect, preparation, and commitment. The fact that we had enough varied terrain to fill two weeks without repeating a single walk speaks to the incredible richness of this small country. Every valley revealed new treasures, every peak offered different perspectives.

Classic Discover Adagio Self-guided

The sanctuary's peace

Between our mountain adventures, we discovered another side of Andorra's character at the Sanctuary of Meritxell Basilica. This stunning example of late 20th-century Andorran architecture offered something our souls needed, a place of peace and reflection amid the mountains.

The space itself, surrounded by fields and gardens, felt like a natural extension of the landscape we'd been exploring. It's the spiritual heart of Andorra, and visiting it helped us understand that this country's appeal goes far beyond its hiking trails.

Building towards something special

As we settled into our second week, I could see the transformation in my group. They were moving with more confidence, reading the terrain better, anticipating the challenges ahead. The mountains were teaching them, and they were learning.

But I knew the ultimate test was still ahead. Pic de Coma Pedrosa, at 2,943 metres, Andorra's highest peak, was waiting for us. After everything we'd experienced, after all the preparation these valleys had given us, it was time to reach for the summit

Classic Discover Adagio Self-guided

Follow Jane's story

Read on to discover the third and final part of Jane's story.

Part three: the summit that changed everything.

Read Part 3
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