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Call us on 01707 817260

  • Monday - Friday9am - 5pm
  • Saturday9am - 1pm
  • SundayClosed
  • Bank HolidaysClosed

Crete’s Ancient Olive Trails

A guide's journal, part 1 of 3

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  • Crete

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  • Landscape
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Setting expectations: the Cretan walking reality

Know what to expect. Our Cretan Trails and Tavernas tour is at the easier end of the spectrum compared to other parts of Crete. However, nearly all walks in Crete have these factors in common. Most walks are rocky underfoot - loose stones, goat tracks, dry riverbeds. They're exposed to sun with little shade, especially at midday. Warm to hot, even in shoulder seasons like April, May, September, October. Beautifully remote but sometimes with no facilities en route.

We're based in Chania, NW Crete with 5 walks in the local district. From here, we explore a landscape that never fails to impress. The variety of views and scenery available on these walks impressed our clients the most. Each day brings something different, yet all share those common Cretan characteristics that make walking here such a distinctive experience.

Ancient groves and terraced time

The land is textured with ancient olive groves, some over a thousand years old. These aren't the neat, orderly plantations you might find elsewhere. These trees have character, personality even. Between them, dry-stone terraces built generations ago create a stepped landscape that speaks of centuries of human effort. Low stone walls divide plots of farmland, each one representing countless hours of back-breaking work by farmers who understood this land intimately.

As we walk along dusty trails or winding rural roads, the first thing you notice is the light. The sun in Crete is bright but soft, casting a golden hue over the hills and making the olive leaves shimmer like silver. It's a particular quality of light that photographers chase but never quite capture. The intensity changes throughout the day, from the fresh clarity of morning to the warm glow of late afternoon.

The air smells of wild herbs - thyme, oregano, and sage growing untamed along stone walls and trails. These aren't cultivated herb gardens but wild plants that have found their niche in this rocky terrain. Brush against them as you pass and the scent intensifies, releasing oils that have concentrated under the Mediterranean sun. It's nature's aromatherapy, free with every walk.

White Mountains rising

To the east or south, depending on the route, rise the White Mountains. In the afternoon light, their bare limestone faces are pale gold or blush pink. The contrast between the high, harsh peaks and the cultivated land below is striking. These mountains dominate the landscape, their presence felt even when clouds obscure their summits. They're a constant reminder of Crete's geological drama, the forces that shaped this island and continue to define its character.

It's this combination that makes the walking here special: ancient agricultural landscapes backed by dramatic mountain scenery. You're never just walking through pretty countryside. You're walking through history, through a landscape shaped by both natural forces and human persistence. Every terrace, every stone wall, every ancient olive tree tells part of the story.

Evening rewards in Chania Old Town

Every evening the group ventures into Chania Old Town to eat. Sometimes in the Venetian Harbour and others in quiet back streets. The décor and image may be unprepossessing but the ambiances and food are really special. These aren't tourist restaurants with printed menus in six languages. These are places where locals eat, where the menu might be handwritten and change daily based on what's fresh. While the walks, the scenery and views have to be the highlight of the tour, the dining experiences are also a major contributor to what makes this tour so worthwhile. After a day navigating rocky paths and dusty trails, these evening meals become moments of pure satisfaction.

Book your Cretan Trails and Tavernas Tour

Ready to walk through thousand-year-old olive groves where the light turns golden? Navigate rocky Cretan paths with an experienced guide our Cretan Trails & Tavernas tour. From ancient olive terraces to harbourside dining in Chania's Old Town backstreets.

Classic Discover Adagio Self-guided

Follow Tom's story

Discover the second part of Tom's story next week.
Part two: Village Walks in Crete and Local Encounter

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